Thu, 2009-10-15 14:38 — mtjuan

 

Occupying two lots in the bustling commercial area of Taman Desa, Sri Neelas proves to be a good catch in the sea of mediocre and overpriced banana leaf rice restaurants. In two words: must-try.

By Pauline Wong

Having always had a weak stomach for spicy food, I admit I am a masochist for good Indian food – even if it burns my tongue and sets my innards on fire, I will eat it, fiery chili and all. Even if I suffer for hours later, I remain unrepentant. 

However, I feel like Christmas came early when I went to Sri Neela’s with a colleague to check out their sumptuous offerings; for here was good banana leaf rice that gave just enough zing but didn’t turn my insides into a Molotov cocktail.

This is because Sri Neelas serves up one of the best banana leaf rice I’ve had for some time – honest truth – sans the chili bomb-in-stomach.

Although we didn’t get a chance to sample their breakfast menu (tose, capati and naan are among some of the things served at breakfast), me and a colleague knocked ourselves out with their banana leaf rice (RM5) and their special Chicken Briyani set (RM9). 

The Chicken Briyani set, which comes with a generous helping of briyani rice, a nice-sized piece of chicken (which we are told is cooked together with the briyani rice to enhance the flavours of both chicken and rice), one hard-boiled egg, a tangy cucumber salad and lime acar (pickled vegetables that is simultaneously sweet and sour with an unforgettable tinge of spice). And free flow of curries, of course. 

The briyani rice can only be described as wickedly awesome; incredibly fragrant, not at all oily, and with just the right amount of spice and pepper. Can’t stand it when briyani comes oilier than a greased monkey and tastes like someone tipped a bagful of pepper inside, so Sri Neelas’ caught me by my tastebuds at first bite. 

But the cincher for me had to be their dhalcar, which is much like dhal (a sauce made from dhal beans, boiled until completely liquid and with spices to taste) but this one had something different in it.

I poked at something soft and hard at the same time before being told that it was actually a mango seed! What gives the dhalcar a hint of that sweet-and-sour fruity taste is the mango, which also lends the dhalcar a really smooth, thick texture. 

On the table was also the chicken masala (RM5 per serving), which was equally as good (though the chicken a tad dry) with that classic fiery and aromatic taste. We also tasted the mutton varuval (dry-style) for RM 6 per serving. Although I found the mutton just on the salty side, the tenderness of the meat really won me over. 

There was so much more on the menu that we would have to return to try – but for now, the banana leaf rice and briyani gets two thumbs up from me. 

Another unique thing about Sri Neelas is their one-of-a-kind Mint rice (RM6.50), which is an option you can ask for when having banana leaf rice. It is a testament to its popularity that when we arrived at around 1.30pm, it was already finished. As the manager explained, the Mint rice combines the subtle taste of mint with several other ‘secret’ herbs that they painstakingly grind and prepare on their own, most of which are imported from India directly. 

This, of course, only gives me a reason to return to try it. And all through the meal, there were explosions of flavor in my mouth that makes me such a sucker for Indian food – if one is a food enthusiast, one would agree that nothing quite beats the earthy, spicy, and intense taste of Indian food.

Now, the price range is pretty standard. For RM 5, banana leaf rice is standard with vegetables, rice and curry, and each additional plate of mutton or seafood will set you back RM 6 each, and chicken and fish will cost RM 5 per plate. 

Still, banana leaf rice is a simple dish best left simple, so a starving student can eat comfortably there for RM10 to RM15 and practically stagger out of the restaurant. I would recommend the Chicken Briyani set for a wholesome and worth-your-money meal. 

Overall, Sri Neelas is a banana leaf rice restaurant that stands apart from the overpriced, sub-standard stuff one so often gets, and this is proven by the fact that they’ve been around for 10 and a half years. The restaurant was also full at lunchtime with families and even working adults nipping over for a hearty lunch. Even as we were eating, regulars came up to say hi to the manager, or to have a quick word. 

So the next time you crave good banana leaf rice that won’t make steam come outta’ your ears, go to Sri Neelas. It’s really good, and we kid you not: we’re Malaysians, after all, and we take our food very seriously.